In neighbouring Kapesovo, Thoukididis’s menu brims with ingredients either homegrown or foraged from local hillsides. The nearby Vradeto Steps are a steep ancient staircase hewn into a cliff – the only way into or out of Vradeto until the 1970s. From frescoed Agia Paraskevi monastery, a precipitous ledge offers views back down into the Vikos gorge. Southern Zagori offers an even more hair-raising perspective. Salvia restaurant has sweeping vistas and refined dishes rooted in local traditions, including mouthwatering baklava. From frescoed Agia Paraskevi monastery, a precipitous ledge offers views back down into the Vikos gorgeĪt the ivy-clad Saxonis Houses (doubles from €90 B&B) in Papingo, the owner, Vasilis, can arrange mountain activities. Alternatively, the exhilaratingly cold Papingo rock pools lie beneath towering cliffs a little to the north-east.
SANDY ADVENTURE TIME OBSIDIAN SERIES
It’s south-west of Vikos, between sheer limestone walls sheltering a series of revitalising springs and pools perfect for jumping and diving into.
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Photograph: Gady Cojocaru/Alamyīut the best base is Papingo, a 45-minute drive further into the mountains, great for exploring Zagori’s spectacular central artery: Vikos gorge – among the world’s deepest – is 1,000 metres deep in places.
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